Health Concerns of Chikankari Woman Artisans

Chikankari, the ethnic Embroidery is a traditional craft of Lucknow for decorating fabric or garments with needles and colorful thread, often enhanced with elements like beads, pearls, sequins, zardozi work and metal strips. Interestingly, the core stitches of Chikankari such as chain stitch, running stitch, satin stitch, buttonhole stitch, and cross stitch have remained fundamental for centuries and have been appreciated in global arena. In fact, it’s a wearer’s delight when it comes to dressing for an occasion. In India, Chikan work, fondly called, Lucknow Chikan is a prominent embroidery tradition with over 400 years of history. Although “Chikan” means embroidery, the craft includes about 36 different basic stitches. Traditionally, chikankari is done with white thread on white muslin. Now it has evolved to include various types of fabrics, colors, and decorative elements like pearls, mirrors, and mukaish work.

Chikankari is mainly practiced by women in Lucknow and is deeply rooted in local household culture. The process is highly labor-intensive and can take months or even years to complete a single piece. Historically, Muslim women adopted this craft as a source of income, passing the skill down through generations. Many women artisans work from home or small workshops, and the craft often supports their families. The problems of the female artisans in this unorganized sector are extremely pathetic, as they work at low wages with no guarantee and lack job security. The artisans have no social benefits, long working hours, and poor working / living conditions and exploitation by middlemen. Unfortunately, in addition to the regular concerns brought on by poverty, women artisans also cope with serious health concerns for which they have insufficient means for treatment. These issues were highlighted by filmmaker Muzaffar Ali in his 1986 film “Anjuman”, which portrays the socio-economic struggles of female Chikankari workers in Lucknow.

This research paper aims to delve into the health issues that chikankari women artisans encounter on daily basis. The research paper will also discuss the physical, social & mental health concerns due to the demanding nature of this ethnic handicraft and the social, personal and economic factors affecting women artisans involve in this industry.

Artisans, Chikankari Embroidery, Exploitation, Garments, Health, Income

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